On March 10, I got up at an absurd 6am to go to the airport.
What with the restrictions the Turkish government had thus-far placed on me, I was unable to leave the country without a residents permit- I was picking up a friend.
Wash U was on spring break, and Sophie was coming to Istanbul for a week, and what a week! I know I've only been here for two months or so, but it was so nice getting to be a 'tourist' again, trying all kinds of delicious (and occasionally weird) foods, wandering the heavily populated streets of Sultanahmet and Taksim, getting an excuse to head over to Asia, and even the Princes' Islands.
Sophie only had ten days in town, so we had to make the most of it. Fortunately, she kept a list of the two most important types of things we accomplished (sightseeing and food eating), so it can be saved for posterity - and now I've reproduced it, with some minor embellishments, below.
So now a little roll-playing. You're coming to Istanbul for a week. You want me to show you around, and you ask the exhaustive question of "What is there to do in this city, anyway?"
Here it is, your 9-day Istanbul Itinerary, as determined and accomplished by Sophie and myself. Figure out the order and timing on your own.
Things to do--
Hağia Sofia - I've been back a few times since my first, freezing cold visit with Jonas, and I have yet to be disappointed in the slightest. The building is magnificent, and even with only a fractious knowledge of its history as a Roman church, a Byzantine cathedral, an Ottoman Mosque and a post-Atatürk museum, there's just so much to see here. Roman emperors were crowned here and Sultans prayed here. A must see; also, this is probably #1 on every tour book's suggestions...
Blue Mosque - Also called Sultanahmet, the Blue Mosque is probably #2 under Hağia Sofia for what to see. And, surprise surprise, it's right next to Hağia Sofia. Fancy that. Beautiful vaulted domes, gorgeous inscriptions, impressive (to put it lightly) architecture, and free entry. Need I say more?
The Grand Bazaar - Sophie got no end of fun out of the Grand Bazaar, and during my longest school day spent several hours there, shopping for herself and her friends. 118 streets or so, 10,000 stores. The two biggest items sold (and the only ones that Istanbulites go to the Bazaar for) are gold and leather. Gold shops on the main street still pay their rent in gold - 7kg of 14 karat gold per year. This place is an assault on the eyes if nothing else, but it is so much more. Closed on Sundays, though... so don't leave the souvenir shopping to the last minute.
Spice Bazaar - Not as gigantic as the Grand Bazaar, the Spice Bazaar is just as impressive. Spices, everywhere, punctuated by the occasional 'regular' store, as one might find in the GB. It smells wonderful, the Lokum (turkish delight) is delicious and mountainous around you, and everything is in bright colors. If the Grand Bazaar assaults your eyes, this also assaults your nose, and you'll be grateful it did.
Archeological Museum - Four different buildings make up the Archeological Museum in Istanbul. In my opinion, it's mostly sarcophagi. Artifacts dating back thousands of years are found here, from bits of the Temple of Artemis (one of the ancient wonders of the ancient world, more on that below), to mummies, to the first-ever peace treaty, to ancient statues of a man with stubble. Worth a look-see if you have time.
Hippodrome - This square is located just outside the Blue Mosque, but most people pass through without knowing where they are. The Hippodrome used to be just that- a Hippodrome. Chariot races (Ben Hur-style) were held there, in front of the imperial palace of the Roman Emperor which stood where the Blue Mosque is today. It was the centerpiece of the Imperial setup, as it symbolized the closeness the people of Rome could get to the Emperor (and a symbol of Roman awesomeness). In the Hippodrome you'll find two obelisks. One marked the turning point in the track for the Charioteers. The other was a gift from the Egyptians, and was placed on top of carvings of the Emperor and his Senate in the center of the Hippodrome. It was apparently dragged all the way from Egypt to get there. You'll also find a statue of rusted bronze, twisted together. This used to be three serpents intertwining, but no more. Legend has it a Polish diplomat had it removed when he was drunk hundreds of years ago and brought it back to Poland with him. Also in the Hippodrome, you'll find a fountain that was a strategic gift from the German Kaiser Wilhelm II to the Ottoman's, given just before the onset of WWI. Many people say that the fountain was one of the reasons the Ottoman's sided with the Germans during the war.
Topkapı Palace - the home of many an Ottoman ruler. Situated behind the Hağia Sofia, Topkapı is a veritable treasure of beautiful buildings, and incredible artifacts. In some of the exhibits, you'll find such gems as the Staff of Moses, Saucepan of Abraham, Beard of Mohammed, Arm of John the Baptist, Joseph's Turban, King David's Sword, and many more. All completely authentic, of course, though how they got the snake to turn back into a staff for moses baffles me.
Çemberlitaş - The burnt column. Built in 330 to be the centerpiece for the grand promenade that extended from the column to the Imperial residence, it once had a statue of Constantine on top. In 1106 that statue toppled in a hurricane/terrible storm that swept through the city. The byzantines had a cross placed there as a replacement. Then, after the 1453 Ottoman Conquest, the cross was removed. In the late 18th century, a fire broke out in the neighborhood, and charred the outside of the column, which earned it the name it has today. An innocent bystander to so much history, this is something that many people pass by without looking at.
Center of the Roman Empire - There's a large remnant of an Aqueduct along the road that passes Hağia Sofia. This isn't that. Look next to the aqueduct for a little tiny piece of a column sticking out of the ground. It's white. You'd pass it any day without a second glance. This was the center of the Roman Empire after the capital switched to Constantinople. All points in the Empire were measured from this point. For over 1000 years (the Byzantine Empire used this point too, I believe). Congrats, you just found where all roads lead to (besides Rome itself).
Galata Tower - A Genoese tower built in 1348. It is the oldest tower in the world that still allows visitors inside. It has an interesting history, but on a clear day early in your visit you must suffer the 12TL ($6.50) entrance fee and go to the top, for a fantastic view of the city and a great way to figure out your bearings a little bit.
Galata Bridge - crossing the Golden Horn, the Galata Bridge has a myriad of overpriced but fun restaurants just below the road level, along the water. Drop-line fishermen line the sidewalks on the upper level all day, and boats pass through the middle, but you can eat, drink, and be merry on either side of the lower level of the bridge.
Taksim Square - This is the Times Square of Istanbul. Just in that it's central... there are no massive lighted billboards advertising coke and cars. From here you can get a bus to virtually anywhere in the city, as well as a Funicular to Kabataş for the Tram to the old city. Also home of the best Islak Burger in Istanbul (more on that below). İstiklal Caddesi branches out from Taksim, too.
İstiklal Caddesi. When someone says they're going to Taksim, they mean İstiklal. More than one million people pass through İstiklal on the slowest and coldest of days throughout the year, without fail. On the street itself you'll find countless name-brand shopping outlets, cheap food options and some overpriced tourist traps. Just on the north side of the street, down all the side streets, you'll find bars and restaurants galore. Some are great, others are not, like any nightlife area. But this is the nightlife of Istanbul, Taksim. This was our center of operations when Sophie was in town, and it probably should be yours as well (if you don't mind music blaring through the window until 5am and having the option of going out every night to party... if you do have issues with that, stay in Sultanahmet area near the Blue Mosque.
Princes' Islands - Don't go there on the weekends, and be wary about hot days in Summer, as the islands will be overrun. This tiny archipelago got its name because Ottoman sultans used to exile their brothers here when they rose to power, to make sure they didn't usurp the throne. They have been home to many a famous person, so I've been told. I think Trotsky lived one of them for a time - don't quote me on that. Anyways, go to Büyük Ada. It directly translates to "Big Island," and is the fourth island stop on the ferry you can catch from Kabataş (get off when the masses of people/everyone left on the boat gets off). Beautiful island, wild horses, no privately owned automobiles, and a few delectable seaside fish restaurants. Fun place.
Neighborhoods - There are several fantastic neighborhoods to see in the city, as well. Starting on the Asian side, take a ferry to Kadiköy, a working-class neighborhood with great people watching. Wander the streets, enjoy. It's also cheaper there than in Europe. On the European Side (going from south to north), make sure to look at Beşiktaş, a boisterous, football[soccer]-loving neighborhood along the water with good nightlife and an interesting vibe. A little farther up, also technically part of Beşiktaş district, look for Ortaköy, where you'll find a long line of Waffle and Kumpir shops, lots of little restaurants, and silly souvenir stands. Great place for a relaxing night on the town, a good Nargile (hookah), or to watch a soccer match without getting killed. Next is Arnavutköy, a little fishing neighborhood with some incredible restaurants much farther up along the Bosporus. Finally, Bebek, though this is optional and only gets a mention as its a wealthy town just down the hill from my campus and has great waterfront seating at overpriced places. Beers here cost 15TL each on average, compared with the 4.50TL you'll find just up the hill and 7TL you'll find in Beşiktaş and Ortaköy, for example.
Other things you should probably do while you're here - Find a Nargile cafe (hookah lounge). There are a bunch near the water next to the Tophane tramway stop. They're a bit kitchy but worth it. Standard price for Nargile is 15TL, and don't pay any more than 20. Get a good flavor. I like Apple and Mint (Elma ve Nane) Nargile. Also, hit up a tea garden. If you're in Sultanahmet, there's a place behind a royal graveyard between Blue Mosque and Çemberlitaş that doubles as a tea garden and Nargile cafe. If you're into modern art, see the Istanbul Modern, near Tophane as well. Go to the Chora Church, one of the best examples of a Byzantine-era church we still have. it's a little ways out of your way, but worth it if you care enough. Also, check out Suleymaniye Mosque, constructed by Suleyman the Magnificent to rival the Blue Mosque. Everything else worth doing in this city, to my knowledge at this point, is food related.
Things to Eat--
If you want to know where to go for these delectable treats, either ask me or consult the latest edition of IstanbulEats, my food bible to this city. I literally do not leave home without it, and try to go to a new restaurant at least once a week at minimum. So far I've hit up 17 of these places, and they're consistently amazing. But these are the types of food you should try to stick a fork into.
Menemen - a breakfast dish made of egg, tomato, tomato sauce, pepper, and deliciousness. Scrambled up and served on a hotplate (most of the time), great with a basket of bread and a glass of water.
Pide - One of two things in this country that's advertised as "Turkish Pizza." It gets the closest. This is a boat of bread filled with cheese and toppings. Sometimes tomatoes make an entrance, but rarely in sauce form.
Iskender - One of my favorite feel-good foods, Iskender is a dish consisting of layers of bread under sauce under meat with a yogurt dip on the side. Simple, but to die for. This is a specialty of a place in Bursa, but has been imitated around the country, and incredibly so in Sultanahmet, near Serkeci tramway.
Döner Dürem - you cannot walk down a street in Istanbul for long without seeing a shop selling this. It's the classic - meat shaved off the vertical spit, wrapped up and handed to you within a minute. Some come with pickles, some with french fries, all wrapped up inside. A classic.
Ayran - Yogurt, watered down to be drunk, salted heavily. The Türks love it, most visitors don't, you have to try it. If you see it being made fresh, you must try that one. I'm starting to like it more and more, and last night a friend decided to woefully announce she was getting her first Ayran craving.
Simit - It's like a bagel, but better. I don't know how to describe it, but you'll find simit on any streetcorner for 1TL. Get one, get several. Don't bother with toppings, it doesn't need any.
Turkish Delight - known as Lokum here, this is, well, delightful. Try to buy some from a place that makes their own, not from a mass-produced box. If you're allergic to nuts, make sure you know what you're getting.
Çay - Tea is a staple of the Turkish diet. You'll get it with most meals. Do not decline. However, if you are so inclined, order the following as a substitute:
Elma Çay - apple tea. Incredible. Made purely from apples.
Seafood - Istanbul has amazing seafood. All of it is good. I recommend the Calamari, as it comes with a dip that is unlike any calamari sauce you've ever had (it's yogurt-based, like all food in Istanbul), and is to die for.
Efes - the only beer worth buying here. Not great, but not the worst either. Cheapest around but hardly bottom of the barrel. I'm growing fonder every time I have some.
Kaymak - Best described as clotted cream, this is so much more than that. It's used like whipped cream, as a topping for dessert. Best, in my opinion, as a topping for a candied quince (Ask for Ayna Talısı).
Mantı - Mini dumplings stuffed with meat and covered in yogurt and sauce. Add all the spices on your table, mix up, and enjoy.
Baklava - no words, just smiles.
Islak Burger - a wet burger, by direct translation. Burgers found in a steam box. Sounds gross, but its amazing drunk food (and sober food, let's be honest).
Waffle and Kumpir - Speaking of drunk food, these are the ones you'll find along Istiklal and throughout Beşiktaş along with Islak joints. Waffles are just that, but smothered in chocolate and caramel and fruits and sprinkles and pretty much any other delicious topping you might want. Kumpir is a large baked potato, stuffed with more substantial foods, but still equally unhealthy.
Yani Rakı - A licorice-type alcohol. It comes clear, but is mixed with water to dilute the flavor and becomes cloudy in the process. An acquired taste.
Börek - kind of like a blintz. Filo dough and a filling. The filling can be cheese, meat, spinach, or potato. Quite good.
Köfte - turkish meatballs. Quite tasty. Can also get Balık Köfte, fish balls.
Kebap - Kebab, şiş kebab, two different things. Well, the latter has a stick up its ass, the former lies bare on the plate. Both amazing. Adana Kebap is spicy, Urfa Kebap is not. Both are good.
Street nuts - there's countless guys cracking open what I think are walnuts (but i'm no nut expert) and baking them until they expand. Some people enjoy them, I didn't. They are as plentiful as Simit salesmen along Istiklal.
Sahlep - kind of like hot chocolate, but there's no chocolate. Kind of like egg nog, but there's no egg or rum. Not totally sure how it's made, and I don't want to know. It's delicious.
Söğüş Kelle - Sheep's Head. Sophie and I decided to try something wacky. So we got boiled and chilled sheep head. Our mad scientist street vendor skillfully chopped up the head and placed all the lean bits on a plate, mixed it up with lettuce, onion, and spices, and served it to us with bread. If I hadn't known what I was eating, I would have loved it. As time goes on, my memory of it becomes fonder and fonder.
Turkish Coffee - I don't drink coffee, and the IstanbulEats-recommended turkish coffee shop made a cup I truly enjoyed. Have this.
and finally,
Ciğer - Liver. Some Turks swear by it... I don't know. It could be good, with enough onions to give it some crunch and after being deep fried... be adventurous, try it. Maybe you'll like it?
Oh, and I'm going to add in Penir Helvası. Sophie and I didn't attempt this one, because I didn't know about it. But having just spent a weekend in Çanakkale (to be described in a later post) where this stuff is the specialty, this cheese-and-sugar-based mana from heaven is probably the most artery clogging thing I've had in Turkey, and one of the most delicious.
So that's Istanbul. Fit that into a week, I dare you.
Sophie and I also took a 26 hour trip down to Izmir, Selcuk and Ephesus. In addition to Ephesus, with its gorgeous facades and fascinating ruins (and 50,000 person amphitheater!), we saw the house that the Virgin Mary died in, as well as the remains of the Temple of Artemis, one of the seven wonders of the ancient world. Not much is left of the temple, but a column has been reconstructed from pieces of the temple to give one an idea of its former glory. It was a great overnight trip, which is also highly recommended. Get a guided tour (we got one for 90TL each, but I'm sure there are cheaper... we booked last minute), but try not to buy stuff at the random (and hilarious) overpriced tourist stops along the way. I would write more on the subject, but A) I'm exhausted, and B) it's one of those "see it to believe it" type places, so either look up pictures of it or go yourself.
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